Made with 7.5 oz. Sunforger fire retardant canvas, our Outfitter Wall Tents are designed to be as light as possible without using non-breathable synthetic materials. I have wanted to manufacture a tent like this for a long time, but I couldn’t get my hands on the canvas. Starting in 2008, I teamed up with Duane at SNOWTREKKER TENTS, to have this canvas specially made and finished for our exclusive use. We are the only tent makers that use this material. We have been very impressed with the strength of this canvas weave and we plan on a long history together with this fabric. The canvas is 28% lighter than the standard 10.38 oz. material yet; with proper reinforcing, it makes an equally strong tent.
The Outfitter Wall Tent is designed to set up using a timber ridgepole and timber exterior side poles. The ridge is reinforced and the eve tabs are wider than those of the standard wall tent (below). This design allows me to install a grommet in the center of the eve for the side pole but also to have a D-ring at the edge of the eve tab. (You may want to install a point of some sort on the top of your side poles, to center them in the grommet. It doesn’t take much because the eve is 4” wide.) The D-ring is for the guy line, it allows the line to slide smoothly when tightening the tent and the side pole stays undisturbed. The Outfitter Wall Tent is designed simply and cleanly so that it may be put up and taken down in severe weather conditions. The bottom of the tent is vinyl so it will never stick to the ground; absorb water or dry rot here. (The bottom of the tent is where most tents start to lose it). A continuous, 2” seat belt webbing goes around the tent and is encapsulated in the vinyl so there is no seam to collect dirt. The Outfitter Wall Tents have 5-foot sidewalls for good headroom throughout. It comes standard with sod cloth, stove jack, ridge hole socks for the ridgepole, zippered/tie door, guy ropes, and storage bag included. Stakes are not included, but I recommend generally available log spikes (1/8" X 12"), which work very well. Options: Screened Window(s), Rear Door, Polyethylene Tent Fly (see Wall Tent Options).
|10 X 12||$990||40 lbs||$278|
|12 X 14||$1,311||55 lbs||$364|
|14 X 17||$1,797||60 lbs||$472|
|16 X 20||$1,930||70 lbs||$581|
|Window||Rear door||Extra stove jack||Angle fitting|
Stove Jack & Flap: Stove Jacks can be installed either on roofs, or tent walls.
Zippered Screen Windows: Windows operate from inside the tent and feature vinyl coated fiberglass screen mesh. The zippered window flap is cut and sewn into the tent panel eliminating any possibility of leakage at the bottom of the window flap. On the outside the screen is trimmed out in canvas to conceal the zipper but not on the bottom were water is allowed to run through the screening and down the outside of the tent wall.
Rear Doors: Adding a rear doorway is a great option for extra ventilation or those times when there’s a bear a comin’ through the front door!
Standard Screen Doors: Our standard screen for our doors are cut the full width and height of the tent wall and can be sewn into the tent, Velcro or ties can be used to attached to the tent frame, or it can be stapled to dimensional lumber. They can be clip fastened to a deck or staked to the ground. A standard screen door has one vertical zipper.
Floors: Depending on the company you’d like to keep you may want a fitted floor for your tent, Woven-Vinyl (Multi-Mesh) is a good way to go. This is a loosely woven material that water will pass through. It lies on top of the sod cloth keeping dust down and the bugs out.
Other choices are solid floors, consider 12 oz. Sunforger, this would promote a very clean interior, but shoes would need to be left outside. There is also (9 oz. Calliope) Vinyl similar to the fabric I put on my range tent. If you wish to have a floor, which you can use Velcro to hold in place, then the threshold style doorway is recommended. This allows for a seal on all four sides of the tent with no disturbance when the door is used. A cut out for the stove is available but I think putting a fireproof mat beneath your stove is more serviceable. Of course you can always use pack tarps for flooring in a tent. Use them like throw rugs and expose the ground wherever you want. Sewn in floors do not work well in wall tents, especially when using the internal rafter frame. The closest thing to a sewn in floor for an internal framed wall tent is to Velcro the floor to the sod cloth. If you want a real sewn in floor then check out the Bush Tent.
Why would you want a tent a fly? There are a few good reasons to have a Tent Fly. In many parts of the country a good reason would be to make snow slip off the tent. Other reasons could include the added protection from UV rays when the tent is set up for long periods of time. A fly will keep small sparks from burning the tent roof. If the fly is longer than the tent it makes an awning that can come in handy. A fitted fly (as shown) secures the tent to the ground in high wind areas. Several of these reasons are centered on the Fly material being less expensive than the Tent Roof Material and easier to replace. The proper application of a Tent Fly is to have it elevated above the tent roof, this allows air circulation between the two, which will keep the tent drier and cooler in direct sun and give the canvas maximum breathability in all conditions. Unfortunately, to elevate a Fly, you almost need a separate frame to support it. There are several ways to do this and we can help you find the solution you need for your tent. First consider three fabric choices depending your needs. If an elevated tent fly is what you need consider my Bush Tent, which uses the external A-Frame to provide separation . Canvas Tent Flys: Look and feel cool in the summer and warm in the winter. I make them flat and to extend 6" to 8" over the eve. Canvas flys work very well in wet or arid climates when snow is not an issue. In high UV areas (such as CO, NM, AZ, UT, TX, NV) areas you should figure on getting 4 good years out of one. Stove jack, and guy ropes are included.
Polyester Vinyl Tent Flys (Calliope): A polyester tent fly will last 10 years in the sun, it gives a good degree of snow slippage, and of coarse protects the tent. This fabric may warrant custom fitting over the ends of the wall tent. Also a parawing designed fly can make the entire tent do better in the wind.
Super-Poly Polyethylene Tent Flys: My least expensive Tent Fly style serves only one purpose and that is to make snow slide off. This Fly is cut to fit the length of the tent only but extends past the eves 6”. It is made of fire retardant Polyethylene and comes with guy ropes and a stove jack sewn in place to over lay the tent stove-jack. The material is similar to a generic blue tarp found in stores but mine are fire retardant and “white” in color, and has its own storage bag. The fly is designed for snowy conditions only, and if you put it away when not in use it will last a long, long time.
Angle Fittings: Angle fittings are available for those who want to build their own tent frame. Each kit consists of a set of angles constructed of 1 1/2" galvanized steel and are specifically designed to fit the angles of my tents. To complete your frame, just cut the straight pieces out of 1 3/8" tubing, which you can find in a local fence or home store. The stock comes in 10' lengths. Multiply the number of legs by two, and buy that many 10' lengths. This will include enough tubing for ridgepoles, rafter poles, and the legs.